Retrato Filipinas #12

La Iglesia Conventual de Santo Domingo de Manila
Source
Jorge B. Vargas Museum and Filipiniana Research Collection
College of Arts and Letters, UP Diliman 

"Frontispicio de la Iglesia conventual de Santo Domingo de Manila, reedificada despues del terremoto del 3 de Junio de 1863, siendo Provincial el M. R. P. Fr. Domingo Tresserra."

This is the beautiful front facade of the neo-Gothic Santo Domingo Church in Intramuros. 

Read more about the Santo Domingo Church here.

Lost Legacy: The Magellan Monument

The Magallanes Monument
1848 - 1945

When someone mentions the "Magellan Monument", one might immediately think of the Magellan Shrine or Magellan's Cross in Cebu, but did you know that Manila also had its very own monument dedicated to the Portugese explorer?

Colored illustration showing how commanding the monument was.
Source

Another colored illustration.
Source

The Monumento de Magallanes was an iconic monument that honored navigator and explorer, Ferdinand Magellan. As we all know, Magellan captained the first expedition to circumnavigate the earth. He was also known for “discovering” (emphasis on the quotation marks) the Philippines and claimed the newly “discovered” islands for Spain. Magellan was not able to complete the entire journey because he was killed in the Battle of Mactan in 1521.

Possibly one of the many initial plans of the monument. This design was not applied, obviously.
Source

Source

The monument was erected in 1848 by the orders of Gobernador-General Narcisco Claveria. The monument was originally planned to be erected in Cebu but it was decided later on that it would be more fitting to erect it in the country's capital. Through voluntary contributions and donations, they raised enough money for the monument to be built.

The Paseo de Magallanes became a major landing stage for boats and the Magallanes Monument greeted the passengers upon docking. It was like how the Statue of Liberty greeted the ships that entered New York Harbor.
John Tewell Photo Collection   

It was originally located at the center of Paseo de Magallanes just outside the northern walls of Intramuros, near the Puerta de Isabel II. When the Americans developed and expanded the wharves of the Pasig River in 1904, they tore down some parts of the walls and the monument was moved to a new location near the Aduana Bldg.

The original location of the Magallanes Monument just outside the walls of Intramuros.  
Beyond Forgetting Photo Collection

1925, the monument in its new location in front of the Aduana/Intendencia Bldg and the Commission of Census Bldg.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Showing the evolution of the Paseo de Magallanes area.
1898 - 1934 - 2012
GIF made by me

Paseo de Magallanes. The monument can be seen in the background.
Source

The Paseo de Magallanes was a prominent park and leisure area during the Spanish and American Colonial Era. Afternoon walks, and other outdoor activities were preferred to be done here. 

"Piles of lumber along the Pasig River near Magellan Monument. Intramuros, Manila."
John Tewell Photo Collection

"During the U.S., trade on the quays of Pasig was very active, and the nearby Paseo de Magallanes was used as a storage timber, coal, and other supplies. By 1904, they built a new road through the park and the monument was moved to a new location, next to the Customs. However, it remained a tourist site."

John Tewell Photo Collection

Magallanes Monument
GIF made by me

The monument’s fluted column was made of stone that rested on a marble pedestal. The column was decorated with anchors, dolphins, merlions and laurel leaves. A spherical globe inscribed with Magellan’s name crowned the monument. All of these adornments were made of bronze and were imported from Europe.

Detail of the spherical globe with the "MAGALLANES" surrounding it. You can also the N - S cardinal points, quite appropriate for a monument that celebrates an explorer and navigator.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Magallanes Monument with the Jones Bridge in the background.
Source

The Magallanes Monument was another casualty of World War Two. It was tragically destroyed when a bomb made a direct hit towards the monument. It is said that the column was just dislodged from the pedestal and was still very repairable. Others say that it was reduced to bits and pieces. The true whereabouts of this monument still remains a mystery up to this day. Rumor has it that during the clean-up operations after the war, the Americans pushed the remains of the monument down the Pasig River. The Magallanes Monument is now lost, forever. The only remaining memories are in black-and-white photographs and a few illustrations as a remembrance of its simplicity and dignity that captivated the whole city . 

Still standing amidst the ruins. The Jones Bridge is already destroyed here.
Life Photo Archive

Last moments of the Magallanes Monument from the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Last moments of the Magallanes Monument from the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Magallanes Monument seen on the right was reduced to rubble. From the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

:(
John Tewell Photo Collection

In 2021, we will be celebrating the 500th anniversary of Magellan's arrival in the Philippines. It would be great if we can give him tribute, perhaps rebuilding the monument? Hmmm.  

Retrato Filipinas #11

The Magellan Monument, Manila, 1910.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Retrato Filipinas #10

Manila's destruction after the Liberation of Manila, late 1940s.
[Click on the photo for better viewing]
John Tewell Photo Collection  

This photo was taken in the Manila Hotel. You can see the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument undamaged, but the buildings in the background and even the Manila Hotel weren't so lucky. The Manila City Hall (2), the Legislative Building (3), the Bureau of Finance Bldg (4), and the Jai Alai Building (upper right) were all severely damaged because of the war. 

Standing Tall: The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument

Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument, c1930s.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Monuments are part of our heritage. They are created to commemorate a significant person or an important event that is historically relevant to the citizens of a certain place or even a whole country. The legacy left behind by these people and events helped shape our country's history and cultural heritage and it is just proper to give them the honor and recognition they deserve. 

Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument viewed from the Manila Hotel, c1920s. You can see the walls of Intramuros on the left and the newly constructed Legislative Building in the background. The spires of the San Sebastian Church can also be seen at a distance.
John Tewell Photo Collection

There is one monument just outside the walls of Intramuros that I find particularly beautiful and elegant among all the other monuments around the Metro. I was not hugely familiar with this monument at first but totally not unaware of its existence either. Well, I knew it existed but I never really knew what the monument was all about. I never really got the chance to appreciate it completely until recently.    

Mtrazier Photo Collection

The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument is a historical monument located along Bonifacio Drive cor. Padre Burgos St., fronting the Manila Hotel in Manila. It is a few meters away from Luneta Park and a stone's throw away from Intramuros. It commemorates the expedition and landing in the Philippines of Spanish cousins, conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi (First governor-general of the Philippines and founder of Manila) and Augustinian friar and explorer Andrés de Urdaneta, in 1565. It marked the beginning of Spanish colonization and the introduction of Roman Catholicism in the islands.

A close-up of Legazpi and Urdaneta.
Source

The monument depicts Legazpi holding a flag on his left hand and a scroll on his slightly extended right hand. Some accounts say that it is actually a sword (not a scroll) and the sword has been lost, or possibly, looted. After looking at old pictures and close-ups, it definitely looks like he's holding a document in the form of a scroll and not a sword. On the other hand (quite literally), Urdaneta is holding a cross which extends upwards to the sky and what seems to be a book (Bible?) on the other hand. Urdaneta is also stepping on an anchor. The anchor represents the expedition and it shows how the technical direction was controlled by Urdaneta. There is also a woman (Symbolizing motherland, perhaps?) resting on the bottom near the base of the monument. She is holding a block, inscribed on it, "XXIV Junio MDCXXI" or June 24, 1621. I got curious about that date so I researched but I did not get any direct information about it. The only thing I came up with was that this date was the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the city of Manila (Manila was established on June 24, 1571). The monument has a lot of symbolism and it is quite a powerful spectacle if you ask me.

Circa 1930s
Source

An old postcard.
Source

An old postcard.
Source

The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument was commissioned by the Spanish Colonial Government in the late 1890s. Renowned Spanish sculptor, Agustin Querol, designed the monument in Barcelona, Spain. The bronze statue of Legazpi and Urdaneta rests on a marble-granite classical plinth and is decorated by other ornaments. By the time of its completion, the Philippines was already under American Rule but it was still shipped to Manila and was stored for years in the customs storeroom. It was finally erected in 1929. It has remained in its original location ever since. It miraculously survived, unscathed, during World War 2.

The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument amidst the ruins, 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Sadly, I believe that this monument is very underrated and it does not get the recognition it truly deserves. A lot of people are not aware that a monument so beautiful exists in our country. Unfortunately, this is the truth. 

Another colored postcard, 1920s to 1930s.
Source

My friend Paulo Bustamante and I recently visited this monument. It was actually my first time to see the monument in person. I fell in love with it and was completely hypnotized by its allure. Paulo was so shocked as we were approaching the monument and I did not get why he was so worried. When we were at the monument's base, I was completely outraged! Some parts of the monument, especially the ones that can be easily reached by hand were missing. The plaques, and some of the minor embellishments were looted. I was so heartbroken that something so historical can be vandalized and disrespected just like that. Paulo took pictures and we were determined to report the crime to the Heritage Conservation Society. He posted photos for proof and everyone became so upset and the photos went viral in an instant. It felt really great because at least we know that a lot of people actually DO care. I just hope that in the near future, the stolen parts of the monument would be returned, if not, replaced. 

Back of an old P10 bill featuring the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument, released in 1949.
Source

I also have an issue with the placement of the statues of Cory, Ninoy and Cardinal Sin near the vicinity of the monument. I am sorry, but I don't think that these monuments belong there. While I have the utmost respect for these people and their contributions to the Filipino people, I think that their monuments are out of place. It completely envelopes the view of the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument making it more unnoticed, further emphasizing the lack of attention it gets from local officials.  

I think it is our responsibility as Filipinos to take care of our historical heritage. It is not too late for this monument and I think the government should take action in preserving these treasures. It may have survived the war, but in it's current state, it may not survive Filipino negligence. It is unfair because there is a possibility that this monument might not survive for the future generation to see and aprreciate. We must not deprive them of this so we must act now before it completely disappears into oblivion...

Retrato Filipinas #9: Chocolat Pupier

The year was 1936, French chocolate brand Pupier produced this album of collect-them-all images of the different sights, scenes and sounds across the Asian region. They featured the Philippines and the end results looked awesome!

Philippine Islands

Ifugao House

Rice Cultivation

Eating Dogs

Costumes

They even included the Manila Cathedral!

Manila Cathedral

You can view the whole album featuring all the other countries here.

Beautiful and Forsaken: The Jones Bridge

The Jones Bridge was often photographed alongside the Bureau of Posts, Telegraphs and Public Works (Post Office Bldg.) and the Metropolitan Theater. All three structures are masterpieces by Arch. Juan Arellano.
National Geographic Magazine, September 1930.

If there is one particular structure that exuded elegance and sophistication during the good old days of pre-war Manila, this bridge that crosses the Pasig River would definitely be on the top of anyone's list. 

A vintage postcard showing how picturesque this area was before the war.
Source

The William Atkinson Jones Memorial Bridge or more commonly known as the Jones Bridge is a bridge that connects the Binondo district on Calle Rosario (Q. Paredes St.) with Calle Padre Burgos (Padre Burgos St.) just outside the walls of Intramuros. The bridge honored former Virginia representative, William Atkinson Jones, the principal author of the Jones Law or the Philippine Autonomy Act of 1916. Learn more about the Jones Law here.  

Aerial view of the Jones Bridge, c1920s. You can still see the foundations of the Puente de Espana just a few meters upriver from the Jones.
Source

The Jones Bridge replaced the Puente de Espana (Bridge of Spain), built by the Spaniards in 1876. When the Americans took over, this bridge was still working perfectly but eventually, the bridge became weak and was damaged beyond repair. A replacement was needed as soon as possible.

Jones Bridge, c1930s.
John Tewell Photo Collection

As part of Daniel Burnham's planning and beautification of the city, Burnham's plan gave importance to the Pasig River and to the canals surrounding it. The Bureau of Public Works strongly implemented this plan led by another prominent American architect, William Parsons. Burnham took inspiration from Paris' Seine River and Venice's stunning canals. He  envisioned Manila to be a combination of both Paris and Venice.

Jones Bridge, c1930s.
John Tewell Photo Collection

As part of the Jones Law of 1916, priority was given to Filipino architects in designing new buildings for the city. Arch. Juan Arellano was the chief designer and architect of the neoclassical Jones Bridge and he surely did not disappoint. Construction of the bridge was in full swing in 1919 and was completed in 1920. It was inaugurated in 1921.  

The newly completed Jones Bridge beside the Puente de Espana, c1920s. The Puente de Espana was already being slowly demolished. That steel bridge served as a temporary bridge while the construction of the Jones was being undertaken. That is not the Puente de Espana's original design.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Most photographed angle of the Jones Bridge. This picture definitely gives off a Parisian vibe.
Source

"Arellano designed the bridge in the style of Parisian bridges of the Napoleonic and Haussman eras. The bridge had three arches resting on two heavy piers. The internal structure was of steel with the piers, cladding and ornamentation in concrete and pre-cast faux stone." (Alcazaren 2001)  

An illustration of the Jones Bridge showing the figures on the bridge's piers. 
Source

Jones Bridge
"Manila, Queen of the Pacific", 1938

"It was the ornamentation of the bridge that set it apart from the previous one. Arellano embellished the piers with a statuary of boys on dolphins, similar to the embellishments on the Pont Alexandre III in Paris (which he visited on the way home from America). The lampposts, balustrades, finials and moldings were similarly treated." (Alcazaren 2001)

The figure on top of the bridge's center arch showing its intricate details.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Out of all the many features that make up this bridge, I think the most striking parts are the four statues on both ends called La Madre Filipina (The Filipina Mother).

One of the statues of the La Madre Filipina. I believe that this particular statue is the one we see in Luneta today.
"Manila, Queen of the Pacific", 1938

La Madre Filipina
"Manila, Queen of the Pacific", 1938

"Arellano marked both ends of the Jones with statuary on immense plinths. The sculptor Martinez was commissioned to create four allegorical tableaus in cast stone. These four carried a matriarchal theme: motherhood and nationhood." (Alcazaren 2001)

View of the Jones Bridge from the Post Office Building.
Source

The La Madre Filipina greets you as you enter the bridge from Plaza Lawton.
Source

Another view showing the bridge's entrance from Plaza Lawton.
Source

A vintage postcard showing the calesas entering the bridge.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Jones Bridge upon entering from Plaza Moraga.
Source

"Horn Tooting Prohibited", a sign in one of the bridge's pedestals, 1941.
Life Photo Archive   

View of Plaza Lawton from the bridge, 1941. 
Life Photo Archive

View of Plaza Moraga from the bridge, 1941.
Life Photo Archive

The Second World War marked the untimely destruction of the once beautiful Jones. It was bombed by the Japanese Imperial Army during the Liberation of Manila in 1945. The Jones Bridge was reconstructed with funds from the American Government under the Philippine Rehabilitation Act of 1945. The bridge still carried its original name but the original design was not applied. Functionality was chosen over aesthetics. The new design was simpler and quite banal, a far cry from Arch. Juan Arellano's vision. 

The Jones Bridge, 1945.
Life Photo Archive

A temporary Bailey bridge spanned the Pasig River, post-war Manila.
John Tewell Photo Collection

A colored photograph showing the remnants of the Post Office Bldg. and the Bailey bridge that temporarily connected the Pasig. The Metropolitan Theater can be seen on the right.
Source

Out of the four statues of the La Madre Filipina, only three survived to this day. One statue was placed near the Rizal Monument in Luneta Park. The other two statues guard the entrance of the Court of Appeals Building in Ermita, Manila. However, the fourth statue mysteriously disappeared. It was probably destroyed during the war and maybe it is now resting on the depths of the Pasig River. No one really knows...

The two La Madre Filipina statues still intact while entering from Plaza Moraga.
Source

Showing the damaged pedestal upon entering the bridge from Plaza Lawton. This is probably the fourth statue that is missing. The building in the background is the war-torn San Juan de Letran in Intramuros.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Jones Bridge represented so many things. It symbolized the Philippines' development as an emerging nation, it showcased Filipino artistry and more notably, it represented American rule and influence on the Philippines. It was a bridge that every Filipino should be proud of.   

John Tewell Photo Collection

The fate of this bridge is uncertain. One can only dream of the complete restoration of the pre-war Jones Bridge back to its former glory. This dream is not impossible and I believe that in the future, with the right management and the proper time, this bridge will be given back its old grandeur and splendor. 

*Special thanks to Mr. Paulo Alcazaren's article "Jones Bridge Diary: The link to a romantic past" published in 2001.