Retrato Filipinas #12

La Iglesia Conventual de Santo Domingo de Manila
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Jorge B. Vargas Museum and Filipiniana Research Collection
College of Arts and Letters, UP Diliman 

"Frontispicio de la Iglesia conventual de Santo Domingo de Manila, reedificada despues del terremoto del 3 de Junio de 1863, siendo Provincial el M. R. P. Fr. Domingo Tresserra."

This is the beautiful front facade of the neo-Gothic Santo Domingo Church in Intramuros. 

Read more about the Santo Domingo Church here.

Lost Legacy: The Magellan Monument

The Magallanes Monument
1848 - 1945

When someone mentions the "Magellan Monument", one might immediately think of the Magellan Shrine or Magellan's Cross in Cebu, but did you know that Manila also had its very own monument dedicated to the Portugese explorer?

Colored illustration showing how commanding the monument was.
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Another colored illustration.
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The Monumento de Magallanes was an iconic monument that honored navigator and explorer, Ferdinand Magellan. As we all know, Magellan captained the first expedition to circumnavigate the earth. He was also known for “discovering” (emphasis on the quotation marks) the Philippines and claimed the newly “discovered” islands for Spain. Magellan was not able to complete the entire journey because he was killed in the Battle of Mactan in 1521.

Possibly one of the many initial plans of the monument. This design was not applied, obviously.
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The monument was erected in 1848 by the orders of Gobernador-General Narcisco Claveria. The monument was originally planned to be erected in Cebu but it was decided later on that it would be more fitting to erect it in the country's capital. Through voluntary contributions and donations, they raised enough money for the monument to be built.

The Paseo de Magallanes became a major landing stage for boats and the Magallanes Monument greeted the passengers upon docking. It was like how the Statue of Liberty greeted the ships that entered New York Harbor.
John Tewell Photo Collection   

It was originally located at the center of Paseo de Magallanes just outside the northern walls of Intramuros, near the Puerta de Isabel II. When the Americans developed and expanded the wharves of the Pasig River in 1904, they tore down some parts of the walls and the monument was moved to a new location near the Aduana Bldg.

The original location of the Magallanes Monument just outside the walls of Intramuros.  
Beyond Forgetting Photo Collection

1925, the monument in its new location in front of the Aduana/Intendencia Bldg and the Commission of Census Bldg.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Showing the evolution of the Paseo de Magallanes area.
1898 - 1934 - 2012
GIF made by me

Paseo de Magallanes. The monument can be seen in the background.
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The Paseo de Magallanes was a prominent park and leisure area during the Spanish and American Colonial Era. Afternoon walks, and other outdoor activities were preferred to be done here. 

"Piles of lumber along the Pasig River near Magellan Monument. Intramuros, Manila."
John Tewell Photo Collection

"During the U.S., trade on the quays of Pasig was very active, and the nearby Paseo de Magallanes was used as a storage timber, coal, and other supplies. By 1904, they built a new road through the park and the monument was moved to a new location, next to the Customs. However, it remained a tourist site."

John Tewell Photo Collection

Magallanes Monument
GIF made by me

The monument’s fluted column was made of stone that rested on a marble pedestal. The column was decorated with anchors, dolphins, merlions and laurel leaves. A spherical globe inscribed with Magellan’s name crowned the monument. All of these adornments were made of bronze and were imported from Europe.

Detail of the spherical globe with the "MAGALLANES" surrounding it. You can also the N - S cardinal points, quite appropriate for a monument that celebrates an explorer and navigator.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Magallanes Monument with the Jones Bridge in the background.
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The Magallanes Monument was another casualty of World War Two. It was tragically destroyed when a bomb made a direct hit towards the monument. It is said that the column was just dislodged from the pedestal and was still very repairable. Others say that it was reduced to bits and pieces. The true whereabouts of this monument still remains a mystery up to this day. Rumor has it that during the clean-up operations after the war, the Americans pushed the remains of the monument down the Pasig River. The Magallanes Monument is now lost, forever. The only remaining memories are in black-and-white photographs and a few illustrations as a remembrance of its simplicity and dignity that captivated the whole city . 

Still standing amidst the ruins. The Jones Bridge is already destroyed here.
Life Photo Archive

Last moments of the Magallanes Monument from the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Last moments of the Magallanes Monument from the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

The Magallanes Monument seen on the right was reduced to rubble. From the clip "Battle of Manila", 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

:(
John Tewell Photo Collection

In 2021, we will be celebrating the 500th anniversary of Magellan's arrival in the Philippines. It would be great if we can give him tribute, perhaps rebuilding the monument? Hmmm.  

Retrato Filipinas #11

The Magellan Monument, Manila, 1910.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Retrato Filipinas #10

Manila's destruction after the Liberation of Manila, late 1940s.
[Click on the photo for better viewing]
John Tewell Photo Collection  

This photo was taken in the Manila Hotel. You can see the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument undamaged, but the buildings in the background and even the Manila Hotel weren't so lucky. The Manila City Hall (2), the Legislative Building (3), the Bureau of Finance Bldg (4), and the Jai Alai Building (upper right) were all severely damaged because of the war. 

Standing Tall: The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument

Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument, c1930s.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Monuments are part of our heritage. They are created to commemorate a significant person or an important event that is historically relevant to the citizens of a certain place or even a whole country. The legacy left behind by these people and events helped shape our country's history and cultural heritage and it is just proper to give them the honor and recognition they deserve. 

Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument viewed from the Manila Hotel, c1920s. You can see the walls of Intramuros on the left and the newly constructed Legislative Building in the background. The spires of the San Sebastian Church can also be seen at a distance.
John Tewell Photo Collection

There is one monument just outside the walls of Intramuros that I find particularly beautiful and elegant among all the other monuments around the Metro. I was not hugely familiar with this monument at first but totally not unaware of its existence either. Well, I knew it existed but I never really knew what the monument was all about. I never really got the chance to appreciate it completely until recently.    

Mtrazier Photo Collection

The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument is a historical monument located along Bonifacio Drive cor. Padre Burgos St., fronting the Manila Hotel in Manila. It is a few meters away from Luneta Park and a stone's throw away from Intramuros. It commemorates the expedition and landing in the Philippines of Spanish cousins, conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi (First governor-general of the Philippines and founder of Manila) and Augustinian friar and explorer Andrés de Urdaneta, in 1565. It marked the beginning of Spanish colonization and the introduction of Roman Catholicism in the islands.

A close-up of Legazpi and Urdaneta.
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The monument depicts Legazpi holding a flag on his left hand and a scroll on his slightly extended right hand. Some accounts say that it is actually a sword (not a scroll) and the sword has been lost, or possibly, looted. After looking at old pictures and close-ups, it definitely looks like he's holding a document in the form of a scroll and not a sword. On the other hand (quite literally), Urdaneta is holding a cross which extends upwards to the sky and what seems to be a book (Bible?) on the other hand. Urdaneta is also stepping on an anchor. The anchor represents the expedition and it shows how the technical direction was controlled by Urdaneta. There is also a woman (Symbolizing motherland, perhaps?) resting on the bottom near the base of the monument. She is holding a block, inscribed on it, "XXIV Junio MDCXXI" or June 24, 1621. I got curious about that date so I researched but I did not get any direct information about it. The only thing I came up with was that this date was the 50th anniversary of the establishment of the city of Manila (Manila was established on June 24, 1571). The monument has a lot of symbolism and it is quite a powerful spectacle if you ask me.

Circa 1930s
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An old postcard.
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An old postcard.
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The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument was commissioned by the Spanish Colonial Government in the late 1890s. Renowned Spanish sculptor, Agustin Querol, designed the monument in Barcelona, Spain. The bronze statue of Legazpi and Urdaneta rests on a marble-granite classical plinth and is decorated by other ornaments. By the time of its completion, the Philippines was already under American Rule but it was still shipped to Manila and was stored for years in the customs storeroom. It was finally erected in 1929. It has remained in its original location ever since. It miraculously survived, unscathed, during World War 2.

The Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument amidst the ruins, 1945.
John Tewell Photo Collection

Sadly, I believe that this monument is very underrated and it does not get the recognition it truly deserves. A lot of people are not aware that a monument so beautiful exists in our country. Unfortunately, this is the truth. 

Another colored postcard, 1920s to 1930s.
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My friend Paulo Bustamante and I recently visited this monument. It was actually my first time to see the monument in person. I fell in love with it and was completely hypnotized by its allure. Paulo was so shocked as we were approaching the monument and I did not get why he was so worried. When we were at the monument's base, I was completely outraged! Some parts of the monument, especially the ones that can be easily reached by hand were missing. The plaques, and some of the minor embellishments were looted. I was so heartbroken that something so historical can be vandalized and disrespected just like that. Paulo took pictures and we were determined to report the crime to the Heritage Conservation Society. He posted photos for proof and everyone became so upset and the photos went viral in an instant. It felt really great because at least we know that a lot of people actually DO care. I just hope that in the near future, the stolen parts of the monument would be returned, if not, replaced. 

Back of an old P10 bill featuring the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument, released in 1949.
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I also have an issue with the placement of the statues of Cory, Ninoy and Cardinal Sin near the vicinity of the monument. I am sorry, but I don't think that these monuments belong there. While I have the utmost respect for these people and their contributions to the Filipino people, I think that their monuments are out of place. It completely envelopes the view of the Legazpi-Urdaneta Monument making it more unnoticed, further emphasizing the lack of attention it gets from local officials.  

I think it is our responsibility as Filipinos to take care of our historical heritage. It is not too late for this monument and I think the government should take action in preserving these treasures. It may have survived the war, but in it's current state, it may not survive Filipino negligence. It is unfair because there is a possibility that this monument might not survive for the future generation to see and aprreciate. We must not deprive them of this so we must act now before it completely disappears into oblivion...